Over the past few decades, Kavkaz cuisine and dishes in Georgia has been breaking all records in terms of popularity in the world. However, we all realise that the most delicious dishes can only be found in their homeland, Georgians themselves are also sure that one must go to the region of origin of the delicacy.
There are enough locations for a good gastrotour, and considering how many magnificent natural places and ancient architecture can be found in each of these regions, the journey will be unforgettable.
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Kartli region
It is on the territory of the historical region of Kartli that the capital of Georgia, Tbilisi is located. But it’s like France: many of the delicacies we love to order in the capital’s restaurants come from completely different regions. The cuisine of Kartli is known for its fatty dishes and the widespread use of wheat bread. The region is also a wine-producing region: in the Gori district a light white sparkling wine Atenuri is produced using special technology, and in the western part of Shida Kartli – in the Khashuri district – a red wine Dirbula is produced.
The most popular dish of the region is Kharcho, a rich beef soup with rice, walnuts and sour tkemali sauce. It is served very hot with lots of garlic and herbs. It is characterised by its thickness: ideally the consistency of kharcho should be more like curry soup.
- Where to try it: Maspindzelo restaurant, Tbilisi
Mtskheta-Mtianeti
The region has been called ‘the soul of ancient Georgia’: it is famous for its shrines, cuisine and wineries. If you are a fan of wine, go on a tour to Chateau Mukhrani: this winery is located on the territory of a former estate that once belonged to the princes Bagration-Mukhrani, and the local cellar was built in the XIX century.
As for the dishes of the region, it is from here that we all have our favourite Khinkali: large dumplings filled with minced meat and herbs. There are also khinkali with cheese or mushrooms, as well as fried. Locals say they should be eaten without sauce, just lightly sprinkled with freshly ground black pepper.
- Where to try: Aragvi restaurant at the entrance to Dusheti city
Imereti region
Even Georgians themselves call Imeretian cuisine one of the best in their country. Local culinary traditions have developed largely due to the fact that the current capital of the region, Kutaisi on the Great Silk Road. The food here is quite diverse: different vegetables, nuts, herbs and spices are widely used. By the way, if you want to take Georgian spices with you, buy them in Imeretia.
Of course, the first thing that comes to mind is Imeretian-style Khachapuri – a round closed flatbread made of yeast dough with a filling of lightly salted chkinti-kveli cheese inside (it is baked on a ketsi pan). Beans are often used in Imeretian cuisine, for example, this is where lobio comes from, which is made of both green and boiled red beans with herbs and pomegranate seeds. The dish is seasoned with wine vinegar, garlic, utskho-suneli and coriander. Also from Imereti a wonderful snack pkhali – made of radish and beetroot, spinach, cabbage, nettles, with the addition of nut dressing with garlic and spices – spread all over Georgia.
- Where to try it: Toma’s Wine Cellar, a café with home cooking and family history, half an hour’s walk from the centre of Kutaisi.
Mingrelia
Mingrelians are fans of spicy food (there is even a joke in the region that they serve sandwiches with ajika for dessert). The reasons for this lie in history: malaria was a common illness there, but the locals noticed that eating hot peppers reduced the risk of catching the disease.
Satsivi, one of the main Georgian dishes of the New Year’s table, originates from Mingrelia. Classic satsivi is usually made of two-year-old turkey with nuts, dry spices and fresh coriander, but today chicken is more often used for its preparation. Mingrelia is also the birthplace of suluguni, the most famous Georgian cheese. It can be found in Mingrelian khachapuri, gebzhalia (cheese rolls with mint adzhika served in matsoni sauce flavoured with mint) and elardzhi (corn porridge with cheese).
- Where to try: Diaroni restaurant in Zugdidi, popular with locals, with live music and a cheerful atmosphere.
Kakheti region
Kakheti is one of the most picturesque regions of Georgia. In summer you can eat here only fruits, fresh tomato salad and wine and no one will judge you. In the cool season Kakheti reveals all its gastronomic diversity. The basis of the local cuisine is meat and vegetables, the food here is simple but tasty and nourishing. It is also where many famous Georgian wines – Saperavi, Kindzmarauli and Tsinandali – originate.
The region is famous for its kebabs – here they are called Mtsvadi (shashlik). Kakhetians themselves prefer pork. Mtsvadi differs from our usual kebab in that in Kakheti it is not customary to marinate meat beforehand (according to locals, marinade will only spoil good meat).
Another gastronomic ‘speciality’ of the region is Chakapuli soup made of fresh herbs (such as tarragon, onion and coriander) and lamb. It is served as an independent dish (mostly in late spring and summer) with wine, herbs and bread, and eaten only when hot.
This wine-growing region is also considered the birthplace of the famous Caucasian sweet Churchkhela made of nuts and grape juice thickened with starch.
- Where to try it: in the panoramic restaurant The Terrace Signagi with a breathtaking view of the Alazani Valley.
Adjara region
The region is famous for its hearty and rather heavy food based on herbs, garlic, nuts, meat, cheese, seasonal vegetables or fruits and a large number of different spices. We recommend not ordering more than one dish per person, otherwise there is a chance of not leaving the table.
Of course, the most famous Adjarian dish is Khachapuri boat, which is baked in the oven. Before serving, a raw egg is poured over the melted cheese filling. Another insanely calorific and hearty cheese dish is Borano: Adjara cheese is melted in hot butter and served with Georgian bread ‘shoti’ and unleavened corn flatbread mchadi with white wine.
And for breakfast in Adjara you should definitely try local chirbuli eggs, which are cooked in thick tomato sauce and served with walnuts.
Where to try: in a small and cosy Batumi restaurant, Laguna.
Meskhetia
This is where the famous mineral resort of Borjomi is located. It has clean air and beautiful nature, and Meskhetia is also considered a cattle-breeding region: no wonder dairy products and cheeses are especially important for the local cuisine.
The culinary pride of Meskheti is the fibrous stretched cheese Tenili. In the old times it appeared on the table only on the occasion of big holidays; today tenili is almost impossible to find in any other region, its production in Meskheti is carried out only by private farmers, not by manufactories.
Another famous dish of Meskhetia is tutmaji soup made of matsoni with fried and boiled dough. Meskheti is also the only place in Georgia where snails are eaten.
- Where to try it: at the authentic restaurant My House in Borjomi.
Guria province
Guria’s cuisine is little known outside the region, but that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to try. Poultry meat dishes are popular here: it is roasted in a ketsi pan, covering it with grape or walnut leaves before cooking. A nutmeg sauce is often used as a seasoning. There is also a local variation of khachapuri: here they are baked on a grill.
The Gurian corn flatbread mchadi is widespread: these round buns can be found all over the country today, most often served as an appetiser with pkhali. The region’s main speciality is brijnula pies with cheese and egg, as well as various variations of aubergine preparation.
- Where to try it: Niabauri restaurant in Ozurgeti
